Dining With Trimalchio

High society is now represented by the founders of American Express, Drexel Burnham Lambert, and Burger King.
 
By Debby Long
 

Diner“When I came back from the East last autumn, I felt that I wanted the world to be in uniform and at a sort of moral attention forever; I wanted no more riotous excursions with privileged glimpses into the human heart.” – Nick Carraway, The Great Gatsby, F. Scott Fitzgerald, 1925

Me too. In the 1990s, shortly after Donald Trump had launched his private club, I was invited by some dear friends to join them for dinner at Mar-a-Largo. We sat in the highly gilded and rather strange dining room, watching Trump work the room. As he flitted from table to table, my thoughts were something like: So, this is the guy who doesn’t pay his bills, bankrupts his companies, and throws his money around as if he were hosting a potlach. So, this is the short-fingered vulgarian of Spy Magazine. It appeared that Palm Beach had gone all born-again Gatsby. It appeared that the society of mixed-breeds had displaced the crossbreeds of feigned European aristocracy. And there I was, easy to miss, small with ambiguously dark skin, watching what was about to be revealed with the “eagle eyes” that my father’s side of the family bequeathed me.

Back then, Palm Beach was as Republican as apple pie. Black tie events, like the one I’m about to descant, often had formal receiving lines where famously wealthy grande dames, dressed in long wedding cake gowns designed for an audience with Queen Victoria, held out their gloved hands for a touchless ring-kiss. However, the strangest feature of their fusty ensembles was the jewelry they wore. These ladies, who represented the tottering remains of the American patrician class of WASPs, were tricked out in reproductions of their own famous jewelry. The originals of these jewels remained safely secured in safety deposit boxes somewhere on Worth Avenue. As an invited guest passed through this ghostly receiving line, they were treated to impossibly tall, thin models, garnished in Harry Winston jewels, striding wordlessly through the dining room.

Glass display cases were scattered throughout the receiving room, displaying elaborate emerald and diamond necklaces that looked sparkly, but also very heavy. Winston was cutting out the middlemen, and this performance was a jarring tableau vivant of the evanescing of American aristocracy, as thoroughbred breeding yielded to the transactional grandeur of a new class of parvenu wealth.

This was a time when, thanks to Ralph Lauren, the sport of polo, the sport of kings, was renewed, but now the kings were from Wall Street. Instead of a parade of historical bloodlines, high society was now represented by the founders of American Express, Drexel Burnham Lambert, and Burger King.

And I was an inconspicuous flâneur, a refugee from parts unknown, probably located somewhere in the bumpkin land of the American Midwest. I was Nick Carraway in a dress, floating in a sea of prancing Gatsbys.

And there were charitable balls upon charitable balls during what was known as “The Season” - the fall and winter season when the East Coasters move to the land of the Winter White Houses. The Season was heralded when car transports began arriving and off-ramping their cargo: Rolls Royces: Flying Spurs, Silver Dawns, and Silver Seraphs, all proclaiming that their owners had literally and figuratively arrived. It was a flurry of socializing and gown wearing in honor of some barely mentioned charity. And it was de rigueur to attend the day’s polo match at the then Palm Beach Polo and Country Club, followed by the evening’s black-tie dinner - a mirthless Mummer’s Parade, no humor and no irony, just rich people who equated wealth with worth. Maybe that’s why they called the main street in Palm Beach, Worth Avenue.

The Piaget Ball was the one that I remember best. The polo match that day was both brutal and transfixing, much like a John Wick extravaganza of balletic murder. The first part of the match was followed by a white-tented luncheon on the polo field. I was privileged to sit at the High Table, the table reserved for old money and women in elaborate hats. I wore a beautiful hat through which I talked, because even though I was expected to know my fellow dining companions, I didn’t. Across the table sat a DuPont – a portly woman who resembled Margaret Dumont in the Marx Brothers’, A Night at the Opera. Beside me sat her husband, a polo legend of the early 20th century, now crippled by rheumatoid arthritis. On my other side sat a similar sports enthusiast of impeccable lineage. The men sought to talk to each other, but their efforts couldn’t get past the rim of my hat. Since the subject matter was focused on hunting and fishing, both in which I was highly experienced, I joined the conversation. After a good deal of partridge and fly fishing prattle, I innocently asked the polo legend what business he was in. He looked at me, and explained somewhat exasperatedly: “My dear, I play polo and shoot quail.” Unsatisfied, I slogged on in my best Lorelei Lee voice and asked, “Does your son play polo too, or is he involved in another occupation?” – to which he replied “My dear, he plays polo and shoots quail.” Undeterred, I asked, “And your father?” Polo and quail all the way down.

The evening’s black-tie gala found me at the same High Table but with a younger set of patricians. Again, I only knew that the man seated next to me had played in the day’s polo match. It was apparent at first glance that he neither suffered from hereditary hemophilia, nor debilitating anything. He was a charming man whose wife sat across from us and was the center of attention at the table as she announced that she was launching the Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer Foundation.

Even knowing that the charming man sitting next to me played polo, my inner Lorelei Lee would not be silenced. Just as I did in my afternoon luncheon, I asked him if he had other pursuits beyond polo, and instead of responding as if I were a piece of gum embedded in the sole of his shoe, he replied, “Well, yes I do. In addition to polo, I founded Steak and Ale, and then sold it to Pillsbury. Then I headed Bennigan's and Burger King, and now I am currently CEO of Chili’s.”

No quail.

America is complicated. Just as the DuPonts founded their fortune in the manufacture of gunpowder, many of today’s powerful families have established their fortunes inventing things we never thought were even valuable, until they were. Today, it’s fascism, tomorrow it will be artificial intelligence.

That day, I traveled from the irrelevance of the moneyed lineages of the past to the uniquely American upward mobility of today. From wealth equated with worth - to worth that springs from the innovation of imagination. And I concluded that everything is a function of point of view. One can be a guest of Donald Trump’s Trimalchio, and the next day be a dinner guest of the Princess of Thailand…

"So, we beat on, boats against the current, borne back ceaselessly into the past.” Nick Carraway, The Great Gatsby, F. Scott Fitzgerald, 1925

 
 
 
 
 
   
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